New-comer to surfing? Everything you need to know to be a good sport and surf without problems.

PREPARATION

You’ve pinpointed your “spot” (the place where you are going to surf) - outside of the bathing area marked by the blue flags where surfing is not permitted. There aren’t too many surfers in the water so as to avoid collisions, but you’re not alone either- were something to happen to you, another surfer could help you.

You put your freshly waxed board (you apply surf wax to the part of the board where you put your feet) under your arm and check the condition of your leash (the cord which connects the board to the surfer, at the ankle of their back foot, using Velcro, which allows the surfer to get their board back quickly after a wipe out).

 

SURF THE WAVE

Once you’re in the line-up (the area where the waves break), you must be observant- a wave that breaks at the same time the whole way along its length is not one you want to surf. A “surfable” wave is one that breaks in a consistent way. You call it a “right” if it curls to the right as you surf it and a “left” if it curls to the left.Before your first take-off (when a surfer moves to stand up on a wave), check that you have the right of way, which is when you’re closest to the peak (the bit where the wave breaks). The rules only allow one surfer per wave.

A wave can break in two directions- the first surfer on their feet has priority. If it breaks in two directions, both surfers have priority, each in their own direction.

The surfer on the wave has priority over the others who must drop back and try their hardest to avoid collision. In their turn, surfers paddling back out must avoid anyone riding a wave by paddling through the whitewater and not cutting across the wall.

If you respect this simple code of conduct and good manners, you won’t feel like a fish out of water!
vous vous sentirez comme un poisson dans l’eau !

 

(CDT des Landes - 13/05/2011)